Tuesday, February 24
As we were preparing to leave, Joan tracked down the source of some interesting calls and whistles we had heard last night and this morning. Great-tailed Grackles, the first ones we had seen on the trip. Checked the weather on the television and found that some of the mountains had received 18" of snow the day before. Later someone told us that Phoenix had received an inch of rain in one day—the highest single day total in about 70 years. Went to the car and had to scrape a thick layer of frost off the car windows.
We began the long drive on Interstate 80 towards Arizona. The road was straight and went through the longest stretch of unbroken, flat land that I have ever seen. It seemed that the road decreased in elevation for the longest time. The vegetation changed from the mesquite and creosote to yucca. There were huge, dark, low lying clouds ahead of us—they actually looked as though they were below us (and probably were). In places there were some small patches of snow along the road; in others very large puddles. So, we were lucky that we had missed the main part of the storm. We passed some cattle alongside the road and several long freight trains. At times when there where were open patches in the clouds, the sky was the color of tropical waters.
I have to mention the name of one town we came to: Road Forks, New Mexico. I suppose that someone once said something about going where the road forks and that became the name of the town.
Somewhere along the way, we crossed the Continental Divide—first time that I had driven over it, but at this elevation it was not that thrilling. However, the drive itself was fantastic—mile after mile of scenic views, snowcapped mountains, dramatic skies.
Then we reached Portal, Arizona—population about 200. And what a lucky 200 people they are! Portal is at the entrance to the Chiricahua Mountains and Cave Creek Canyon. One of the most beautiful places I've ever been to!!!! The rock was a reddish limestone, covered with reddish and yellowish-green lichens and eroded into arches, caves, and holes. The access road ran between narrow canyon walls. Spectacular. Dramatic clouds made it even more stunning.
We birded some of the lowlands before we went into the canyon—Ladder-backed
Woodpeckers (again), Gambel's Quail, and Mourning Doves. At the entrance to the
canyon we were greeted by a group of loud, raucous Mexican Jays. Enjoyed
watching them at first, but the
y soon became a distraction. Also saw
Black-throated Sparrow there. Joan was relieved because she didn't like the idea
that we had seen them only at a gas station. The birds were nice but the scenery
was something else—I don't have the ability to
describe the glory of the cathedral rocks, snow-covered spires, rocky
outcroppings, caves high up in the walls which were tones of reds, yellows, and
greens, Varied vegetation—juniper, sycamore, oaks,
prickly pears. We were amazed at how some of the trees could get a foothold in
some of the narrow ledges.
We headed up the canyon and found a flock of Yellow-eyed Juncos—only my second sighting of this species. We saw three Brown Creepers at the same time. Saw at least one more a short distance away. Hiked further up, crossing a stream several times, and seeing Bridled Titmice along the way. We passed one very small cluster of small pinkish-purple flowers; the only ones we noticed all day. I enjoyed looking at the grayish green sycamores. Joan found a small bird high in a distant tree. Yellow-orange head, gray body: Olive Warbler—a lifer!
We forded the stream seven or eight times and never got wet although each crossing seemed worse than the last. As I led the way up, I came around a bend and startled four raccoon-like animals which were foraging. They jumped and so did I! They were golden-colored Coati. Three ran one way, the other up a hill. We waited a bit and then left so it could rejoin its friends. A bit further up the trail, we started "pishing" and a long pointed snout with white rings around its eyes popped out over the rock face behind us—the fourth coati! A really thrilling and nice surprise.
On our way back down we saw a brown woodpecker—Sibley's called it an Arizona Woodpecker; the guide books Strickland's Woodpecker. Whichever name it went under, it was another lifer. This was followed by a Red-naped Sapsucker. Add one more bird to my life list. This place must be good for woodpeckers because we also saw a Red-shafted Flicker and Acorn Woodpecker. White-breasted Nuthatches were also fairly common.
When we returned to the parking lot, we ran into another birder who mentioned that there was a Painted Redstart further down the road where he had parked his Jeep. We drove down there and started scouting the area. Heard its song but couldn't locate it. Finally I got a glimpse of a black and white tail and that's all. It was enough to clinch an identification for me, but I certainly was not going to be satisfied with that for my life sighting. It took quite a while but I finally did see it again. If I said "Wow!" for the Vermilion Flycatcher, this bird deserves a WOW! WOW!! WOW!!! It instantly became my choice for the most beautiful songbird I have seen. Although the red is not as bright as the Vermilion's, it is a deeper, richer color, and makes quite an impression with the strong black and white. We enjoyed watching it flit through the trees; at one point it did a loop-de-loop over and under a branch.
Then we decided to drive up another road that had signs that read something like not maintained for automobiles, road closed, etc, but other vehicles had gone up so we gave it a try. We got three miles up (out of ten) before the road became mucky and quite slippery. Fortunately, I found a place to make a U-turn and went back down.
We had dinner at the little inn in Portal—I had an enchilada plate. Since I didn't know if I should have the red or green sauce, I asked for half red, half green. When the check came, it read "Enchilada Plate—Xmas."
A real estate ad we saw said that you could buy a sizable house (with solar panels, several bedrooms, and full baths) in Portal for $250,000. Of course you would have wildlife in your backyard and nearby. Very tempting.
We contemplated staying at the inn overnight but decided that since we had a long way to go the next day, it would be best if we pressed on. The drive was uneventful but it was quite dark out and the skies were clear, so we did pull off the road to see STARS! Many, many more than I have seen in quite a while. Arrived in Sierra Vista, found a motel, and turned in.
Miller &
Ramsey Canyons and Patagonia Beginning of the Trip
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Copyright © 2005 by Joan and Richard Becker